Titan progress and related changes

About Titan

A while ago me and @dfbean decided we would work together to design a trouser block. Deb is actually designing it, I will be implementing the design for FreeSewing.

This issue is a place to document our progress, but also allows me us document some of the knock-on effects that will require changes that go beyond Titan, and so on.

Required measurements

These are the measurements required for Titan:

Name	Description	Fit model	Remarks
crotchDepth	Like our seatDepth measurement but to natural waist	31.1 cm 12.25 "	Add this measurement and drop seatDepth because this is more industry-standard. Adapt patterns that use seatDepth.
hipDepth	Aka our naturalWaistToSeat	22.9 cm 9 "
backHipArc	Arcs will be more accurate if you measure the total Hip, then measure the back and front.  Ensure the back/front measures equal the total Hip.  Then divide the half measurements to get the arcs.	27.9 cm 11 "	Let’s go with backHip. We can do backHip/2, to get the arc.
frontHipArc	See above	25.4 cm 10 "	Perhaps encouraging people to measure both and verify that their sum equals hipCircumference in the docs is sufficient. That way we can do hipCircumference - backHipArc to get frontHipArc. Asking them to do both seems overkill.
backWaistArc	Arcs will be more accurate if you measure the total Waist, then measure the back and front. Ensure the back/front measures equal the total Waist. Then divide the half measurements to get the arcs.	20.3 cm 8 "	Let’s go with backWaist. We can do backWaist/2, to get the arc.
frontWaistArc	See above	20.3 cm 8 "	Perhaps encouraging people to measure both and verify that their sum equals naturalWaist in the docs is sufficient. That way we can do naturalWaist - backWaistArc to get frontWaistArc. Asking them to do both seems overkill.
upperThigh	Aka our upperLegCircumference	64.8 cm 25.5 "
crotchLengthFront	As with arcs, measure total crotch length from CF waist to CB waist.  I suggest measuring without outergarments.  After taking front and back measurements, ensure they equal the total. Measure from string tied at waist.	35.6 cm 14 "	This naming is inconsistent. It’s frontHipArc but crotchLengthFront. So frontCrotchLength is better.
crotchLengthBack	See above	45.2 cm 18 "	See above
waistToKnee	Waist to center of knee, at side. Keep tape straight, rather than curving in and out with leg shape. Measure from string tied at waist.	61 cm 24 "	Alternative: ½ distance between crotch depth and ankle + 1” toward crotch. On the fit model, this calculation would put the knee 1cm high.
waistToAnkle	Waist to ankle, at side.  Keep tape straight. Measure from string tied at waist.	100.3 cm 39.5 "	Alternative: Use naturalWaistToFloor
kneeCircumference	Exactly like ours	40.6 cm 16 "	Deb writes I added ½ inch ease to the back side but that’s an issue. Measurements should not include ease 🤔
ankleEntry	Straighten foot , measure around foot at heel	31.8 cm 12.5 "

Options

The following options are available in Titan:

Name	Type	Default
hipsEase	percentage	1
upperLegEase	percentage	8.5
crotchExtension	percentage	5

FIXME

Todo

• Titan
  • Initial design
  • Clarify kneeEase situation
  • Initial implementation
  • First fit tests
  • Updated implementation
  • Sampling tests
  • QA
  • Translate title and description
  • Translate options
• Various
  • Add the crotchDepth measurement
  • Add documentation for the crotchDepth measurement
  • Add support for the crotchDepth measurement to neckstimate
  • Remove the seatDepth measurement
  • Remove the seatDepth measurement documenation
  • Remove seatDepth as a supported measurement from neckstimate
  • Remove the seatDepth measurement from all stored people
  • Adapt theo to use crotchDepth instead of seatDepth
  • Adapt waralee to use crotchDepth instead of seatDepth
• Website
  • Publish @freesewing/titan
  • Add titan design
  • Add titan documentation

[dfbean]

I think you did it. Crotch length can be long because a person is high waisted or because there’s more girth in the abdomen that initial measurements didn’t capture. Your method addresses both.
The knees look snug because I’m a bit bigger in the middle in comparison. The values I gave you included 1 in ease.
I’m pretty in awe of you right now. No contest, you’d win any argument with my teacher. Her threshold for “good enough” was within 3 mm. Enough said.

[joostdecock]

I think I’m done:

The back (on the left) was already completed. The front is now also ready. I’ve kept different iterations on show in different colors to illustrate the process:

• Black front: This is the initial theory draft
• Purple front: This is after trueing the cross seam
• Green front: This is after trueing the inseam and outseam so they match the back

I did notice the draft instructions do not true inseam and outseam so they match between back and front. But having made a bunch of trousers myself, I find it incredibly frustrating if a pattern doesn’t check this (and on the other hand extremely gratifying if it matches).

I need to clean this up and bit, and then I’m going to see how this handles different measurements and options. @dfbean Perhaps you could compare this to a muslin? Or make a muslin from it? In what form can I get it to you? Paperless PDF? Tiled PDF?